Man Vintners, Chenin Blanc, 2010, Costal Region, South Africa

Chenin Blanc isn't a hugely popular grape with Canadian wine drinkers. Niche interest. Sommeliers like it, but they like every region, as long as it poses interesting questions and provides something distinct. Chenin Blanc is grown in quantity only in the Loire Valley and South Africa. The key to identifying Loire Chenin Blanc is its high acidity along with some honey and traces of summer flowers. Anjou, Saumur and Vouvray are parts of the Loire synonymous with Chenin Blanc - these would have been better places for me to start. I do not have a Loire wine in the substandard linen closet that serves as my cellar. What I do have in there is from South Africa. It's called 'Steen' on the Cape. Man Vintners is firmly on the value end of things. Grapes are sourced from 'bush-vine' or untrellised vineyards in the Agter-Paarl Region. This bush-origin is an important quality distinction for South African Chenin Blanc. Tropical fruit, crisp citrus and sharp acidity are said to be the defining tast-profile features. To be honest, this is my first Chenin Blanc. I'm matching it with snapper.



Mustard Roasted Red Snapper
(Adapted from Barefoot Contessa: Back to Basics)

The elemental elements for 2:

- 2 large red snapper fillets
- 1/2 cup of creme fraiche
- 2 tablespoons of whole grain dijon mustard
- 1 small minced shallot
- 1 tablespoon of drained capers
- salt and pepper

1) Preheat oven to 425 degress

2) Line an oven pan (I used a small roasting pan) with parchment paper. Place the fillets skin side down on the pan. Season with salt and pepper.

3) Combine creme fraiche, mustard, shallots, capers, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 1/4 teaspoon of pepper in a small bowl. Spoon sauce evenly over the fillets, ensuring that the fish is completely covered. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until it's barely done. It will flake away easily in the centre when it's ready. Don't overcook it. Fish is at its best when moist. Serve with sauce from the pan spooned over the top and some over roasted fingerling potatoes and Haricots verts. That means green beans. Worldly, no?

Pairing Notes for the 2010 Man Vintners Chenin Blanc...

Reds with meat and whites with fish, right? It's not always that simple. Monk fish with Northern Woods mushrooms and a rich glaze can match all the way up with a full-bodied red, as long as the tannins aren't too Spartan. It's important to bear in mind the sauce and what is accompanying it. I've focused in on the sauce in this case. Creme Fraiche is the base. One of the principles behind wine pairings for rich, cream-based sauces is acid. You need that tight acidic razor to cleanse the palate and invite further bites. This Chenin Blanc does the job. It's steely and vibrant with some of the floral and honeysuckle notes said to be connected to Loire Valley Chenin Blancs. But there is also tropical zeal. Some Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc fruit. Guava. Passion Fruit. Grapefruit. These flavours work well with the mustard, caper and creme fraiche sauce. It isn't what I'd called a complex wine. Very few layers and the finish is pretty short. But this cream-acid match is a basic one. I will work my way into stranger matches - I want to match fish and reds, for example - but it's important to at least engage these tried and true barometers.