Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Wunsch et Mann, Gewurztraminer, 2008, Alsace, France



The Super Bowl is history. Much like my ability to digest pulled pork. I need something light, aromatic, and exotic. Something that I might seamlessly intertwine with the characteristics of the fragrant Alsace Gewurztraminer I picked up last July after a few too many Lychee Martinis by the poolside. Nostalgia is a dangerous lady. Yes, I am old enough to recall the golden summers of lychee martinis.

Gewurztraminer, however, is no banana daiquiri. Nor is it a broken down golf cart. It is not kitsch. It will not date you upon ordering a glass of it at the bar. It is timeless. Gewurztraminers are lusciously pungent (perfumed, floral) whites with a dry finish. They match well with spice - Thai, Indian and especially curry. I'm running with the last one.

Swordfish with Curried Mussels
(Adapted from Gordon Ramsay's Sunday Lunch)

What you'll require to serve 2:

- 300 grams of swordfish
- 20-25 mussels, cleaned with beards removed
- fresh thyme springs
- 1 bay leaf
- 2/3 cup of dry white wine
- 1 carrot, peeled and chopped
- 1 celery stalk, chopped
- 1 leek, trimmed and chopped
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 3 TEAspoons curry powder
- a pinch of saffron
- 200 grams of baby spinach
- 2/3 cup of cream
- chopped chives
- salt and pepper
- tablespoon of butter

1) Trim the swordfish of any grey membrane. [A word on fish. Be creative and spontaneous. Ramsay's recipe calls for Monkfish. The monkfish I saw didn't look too healthy, so I went with another option. I suppose haddock, cod or even lobster would have worked here] Heat the oven to 350 degrees F.



2) Heat a saucepan until hot. Add mussels, a couple of thyme springs, bay leaf and white wine. Cover pan tightly with a lid and shake. Cook for 2-3 minutes, shaking once or twice, until the mussels have opened. Strain and reserve juices. Remove mussels from their shells and set aside, throwing out any that haven't opened. Those boys are the bad ones.

3) Saute the vegetables in a tablespoon of olive oil until soft. Sprinkle with a teaspoon of curry powder and the saffron. Add thyme sprig, tip in the mussel juice and reduce by half.

4) Meanwhile, mix the remaining 2 teaspoons of curry powder with 1 teaspoon of salt. Pat the swordfish dry with paper towel and dust with curry-salt mixture. Heat remaining oil in an overproof frying pan and fry the swordfish for 2-3 minutes until golden brown. Transfer pan to the oven for another 4-5 minutes to finish off the cooking.

5) Wilt the spinach on low heat in a warm pan with some butter for about 1-2 minutes while the fish is in the oven. At the same time, pour cream into the sauteed vegetables and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the mussels to warm through, then finally mix the chives and season to taste.

6) Divide the spinach among plates and spoon over creamy mussel mixture. Thickly slice the fish and arrange on top. Serve or be served. The latter is much better. Trust me.


How did the 2008 Wunsch et Mann Match Up?

'Gewurzt' in German means 'spice'. The varietal has that spice neutralizing profile, cooling and cleaning the palate and allowing those hotter flavours to be twisted into something delicious. I'm not huge on spice. And this recipe is in no way aggressive with the heat. It's quite mild.

Word to the wise. Don't match a gewurztraminer with extremely spicy dishes. It won't pull through. Mildly spiced dishes work. This dish works wonders with a nice Gewurzt. And the Wunsch et Mann is a nice wine. Fullbodied. Muted. Nosing it? Pears. All Spice. Apricots. All very subtle. It feels closer to a riesling in structure and modesty.  Just one man's impressions, I suppose. I'll have to finish the bottle and get back to you.

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