I've been accused of holding a pretty open grudge against the white wines of the world. Okay, considering that the first four wines featured in this blog have been red, I'll concede the point. Or at least I'll concede the basis for some basic confusion. I'd argue that the one-sided selection process has more to do with the weather in Canada during the months of December through March. A harsh meteorological reality. One that lends itself to braised shanks, oven-roasted birds, fall-off the bone stews consisting of noble hoofed beasts. And meat goes with red wine. Or does it? Jancis Robinson says, "it is body that matters more than colour." I'm interested.
Leave it to the Argentinians to produce an indigenous grape varietal that compliments meat. Some suggested torrontes pairings: beef empanadas, asian cuisine, and - I'm hearing angels sing - charcuterie. At its best a torrontes will bring the aromatics, citrus and stone fruit of a viognier with a crisp acidic structure and complex finish. Closest comparables for me: Alsace pinot gris and possibly a Spanish albariño.
The grape is grown in Mendoza, but it's in the northern province of Salta that winemakers achieve the refreshing elegance of Alsace. I like Alsace a lot. The Crios de Susana Balbo, 2009 is made in Salta. At $11.95 Canadian, it's one of the best values you're going to find. Tonight, I'm matching it with a wild mushroom and pulled pork risotto. Normally, I'd use double smoked bacon, but I slow-cooked a shoulder roast on Sunday and it must be used. You could, I imagine, omit the meat altogether, with no cataclysmic fallout. I have no idea why you would do that to yourself, but it is possible.
Wild Mushroom and Pulled Pork Risotto
This should serve 4. You'll need the following:
- 1 medium onion, diced
- 1/2 pound porcini mushrooms, roughly chopped
- 1 celery stalk, diced
- 4 cups of chicken stock
- 1/2 cup of dry white wine
- 1 1/2 cups of arborio rice
- 1/2 teaspoon of saffron threads
- 1/2 cup of Parmesan
- 6 tablespoons of unsalted butter
- salt and pepper
- either four strips of double smoked bacon or any other available leftover meat (lamb, pork, roasted chicken) diced.
1. Start by heating chicken stock in a small sauce pan to a simmer. You'll be adding it a cup at a time to the rice.
2. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot melt half the butter and saute onion and celery over medium heat for 5 minutes. Then add rice and saute for another two minutes, until slightly toasted.
3. Add white wine and cook until mostly evaporated.
4. Add the first cup of chicken stock along with salt, pepper and saffron. Stir and simmer until the stock in completely absorbed. Repeat with remaining three cups of stock. Be sure to wait until the risotto appears dry before adding the next cup of stock. Taste as you go to make sure rice is al dente.
5. Meanwhile, heat remaining butter in another pan. Add pulled pork (or substitute) and saute until heated (or crisp if using bacon). Add mushrooms. Saute another five minutes. For me, the mushrooms started to suck up all the moisture in the pan so I added more white wine. Solution achieved.
6. Add pork mushroom mixture to finished risotto. The risotto should have a thick and creamy texture. Take off heat and add Parmesan cheese.
How did the 2009 Crios Torrontes Match Up?
A very solid match. I got summertime on the nose. Apricot. Dusty orchard. Florals. Tropical fruit. I almost got a hint of petroleum, but I suspect that was the mind playing tricks, expecting Alsace because everything else was suggesting Alsace. The wine is dry on the palate. Plenty of body for the risotto and pork. Worked well with the earthiness of the mushrooms and rich texture. Completely balanced. Each sip cleaned the palate and made my mouth water for the next bite.
If you're not convinced by this match, no worries, but I'd definitely try the Crios Torrontes at some point. Do it soon. The price is going to arc up. It's just a question of when.
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